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WELDMONGER® Stubby Gas lens Kit 2.0 + Scratch Start TIG & Flick It

6g test in your future? …Get dialed in on plate first..

P.S. Stay tuned, theres a sweet offer down below.

If you have never welded pipe, it makes sense to weld a few plates first.
In this video, I used a simple scratch start setup to weld an open root on a practice plate.
A lot of jobs still test using scratch start tig rigs because of the portability and simple equipment used on job sites.
I used a miller thunderbolt that I got off craigslist and hooked up an air cooled 17 style tig torch with a stubby gas lens.
The amperage readout on stick welding machines like this thunderbolt are not that accurate but you often run into situations where the welding machine amperage is crude.
Its a good idea to practice estimating amperage on different machines before going to take a weld test.
FYI, I used a multimeter to make sure the amperage I stated in the video is close.

ROOT Pass Technique and settings

The fit up for a pipe test is usually around 1/8” gap with zero to 1/16” land (usually no land)
With 30-37.5 degree bevels.
The plate I used came from triangle engineering and was 3/8” thick with 37.5 degree bevels and I gapped it 1/8” using a 1/8” filler rod.

Starting the arc with scratch start tig

There is a trick for starting the arc with a scratch start dry rig that prevents crapping up the tip of the tungsten.
Simply flick the filler rod where it briefly makes contact with the tungsten and plate or pipe as you swipe it by.
This will usually start the arc without compromising the sharp tip of your tungsten.

Technique for root pass

There are several techniques that work for an open root on plate and pipe.
Laywire technique  is just one of many but when I use the lay wire technique , I usually freehand and use a forward and back motion instead of side to side.
Reason?
I seems to push the root in more and results in some reinforcement on the back side.
You might notice that I used a tig finger here because I like to be able to focus on the weld and not my burning fingers.
At 100-120 amps, the root went it pretty nicely.
For the hot pass, sometimes I increase the amperage a bit but there are times when I weld the hot pass at the same amperage as the root pass.
Walking the cup works well on the hot pass too.
I used a #8 stubby gas lens cup but the size cup that works the best depends on the bevel angle and fit.
Once you get enough practice on plates, use the same settings for pipe.
Good luck welder, 
Jody

We decided to upgrade our best selling stubby gas lens kit into a 2.0 version. 🔥




We decided to upgrade our best selling stubby gas lens kit into a 2.0 version.

Here is what makes our stubby gas lens kit new and improved…

  • * We added cup sizes so now it comes with  4,5,6,7, and 8 cups
  • * We replaced the 3/32” gas lens with a high quality  furick gas lens.
  • * We added o rings for use with clear furick cups

 
With our new improved Stubby gas lens kit, you can now use furick clear cups like the clear 8 pro, the jazzy 10, fupa12, and so on as well as ceramic versions of those cups without needing to purchase the furick adapter kit. ( this change alone saves you $24.99)

Let's Talk Flow Rates for Different size cups

Pro Tip:
For most any cup size, 2.5 cfh  x the cup size will get you in ball park.


But we need to have a little fudge factor so lets say 2-3 cfh times cup size.
 …remember that flowmeters are not all accurately calibrated.

different situations call for different flow rates.

It depends on things like weld type, tungsten stickout, shop breezes, etc.

Recommended Argon Flow rates for gas lens cups in the Stubby Gas Lens kit


#4 cup - 10 cfh
#5 cup - 10-15 cfh
#6 cup - 12-18 cfh
#7 cup - 14-21 cfh
#8 cup - 16-24-cfh

OK now that we have good idea of flow rates needed, lets talk about what each size cup is good for.


Why use a #4 cup?

* save gas on flash tacks  
* thin aluminum butt welds where full penetration is desired.
* Fillet welds on light gauge aluminumm
* When you need to conserve argon
 

I typically use an 8 for general tig welding of steels and stainless steels but sometimes the job doesn’t need that much shielding and maybe your low on argon.

I remember a few times when I was welding on a Saturday and needed to deliver a job to a customer on Monday morning.  
Looked over and noticed I was running pretty low on argon and had let my spares get empty too.
Since the parts were carbon steel and were going to be black oxide treated anyway, the welds didn’t really need to be all shiny.

Stepping down to a #4 cup with only about 8cfh got the job finished without running out of argon.

Why use a 5 or 6 cup?…I like both a 5 and a 6 gas lens for aluminum.

I think if so many really good tig welders like Roy Crumrine and Brad Goodman swear by the #5 standard collet body cup, then it stands to reason a #5 gas lens will also perform in a similar way except a longer stickup can be used.
I really like to use the #6 gas lens for all around aluminum welding on various joints.
 Gives a bit more gas coverage for edge build up welds, filling holes, and outside corner joints and makes it a bit easier to keep the tip of the rod shielded with argon
 

#7 and #8 cups are a good all around size for most metals. 

#8 pro clear is my go too cup when I am filming because it really helps you and me both see what is going on better when I film arc shots. ( a side benefit for me is that I can see where I am going better with a clear cup).


And it provides great coverage and lets me use a longer than normal stickout.

Which comes in handy when filming TIG welding videos.

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